Labor for removal from vehicle and reinstallation of a part or accessory sold “over-the-counter” is not covered. This Limited Warranty does not apply where the vehicle mileage cannot be determined or has been altered.ĭamage to a Toyota part or accessory caused by a non- genuine or unauthorized part or component is not covered.
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Service Part Warranty - The warranty for Toyota Genuine Parts purchased and installed by an authorized Dealer on the applicable Toyota or Lexus model vehicle, is 12 months, regardless of mileage, from the install date or the remainder of any applicable New Vehicle Limited Warranty, whichever provides greater coverage. Parts Purchases - With the exception of 12V batteries, Toyota Genuine Parts purchased over-the-counter or online from an authorized Toyota Dealer, but installed by a third party on the applicable Toyota or Lexus model vehicle, carry a 12-month parts only warranty from the date of purchase. Toyota Genuine Parts are defined as all Toyota parts and accessories that are either manufactured or specifically approved by Toyota Motor Corporation and sold by TMS or its authorized Private Distributors to authorized Dealers. This warranty applies to new or remanufactured parts which are Toyota Genuine Parts. TLDR:wasn't the starter, just a loose electrical connection.Toyota* warrants that it will either provide a replacement part or repair any Toyota part or accessory that is defective in material or workmanship. Another shitty thing about the starter location, is that you cant run a jumper straight from the battery terminal to the positive terminal on the starter, which handicaps the troubleshooting process. The weak connection just didn't allow the power to flow at the amp level necessary to start the truck. Also, the cable powering thru the starter relay, powers everything else on that relay box, and everything else was still working. Fully charged battery and connected to a jump box, and the relay was kickin. Wrenched it down and truck fired right up.ĭid the starter even fail? Probably not. Still connected, a tight finger-tight, making good contact, but not completely pressed solid. I found that a ring terminal bolt that screws into the battery clamp connector had become ever so slightly loosened.
Jumping the relay now only gave a click as well.
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And it did that without the full charge it now had. The fact that I tested it by jumping the relay and it turned the motor over, ruled out anything else BUT a weak electrical connection. Go out to start the truck, and get one loud click. I know my battery charge had gotten a bit low so before I started the truck for the first time, I put a charger on it for a couple hours. Slapped on the intake, throttle body, and finished making all connections. Made minimal connections necessary, including the battery itself, and jumped the starter relay to confirm the starter would turn over the motor. Replaced the contacts, put the starter back together, and back into the truck. The contacts were definitely worn, but not gone. When something fails, I want to find broken parts, so there's no doubt. Upon opening the starter, it didn't appear to be worn to the point of failure. Then bought a repair kit with the contacts, which are surprisingly universal for many makes and models.
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This is not a thread on how to remove the starter so I won't go thru the process, but I did that next. However tapping the starter housing did nothing for me. Just wanted to give an update/followup post, as it drives me nuts when people leave threads like this without end you were correct about being able to put eyes on the starter.
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